Lighting the first lamp on Dursey Island
After slaloming along the never-ending, westerly road from Castletownbere, you finally arrive at the cable-car, the only one in Ireland. If it is operational and not otherwise in use, take it to the island across the sound, Dursey Island, pop. 4, at the last count. Then walk, or run, or hop, or do the mashed potato, the four miles to the far end of the island and, as you traverse the last summit, two buildings will come into view. One of them is the Calf Rock lighthouse, only 15 years old when a severe storm brought the bulk of its tower down in 1881, leaving just a rusting stump to remind everyone that the sea will spot the slightest weakness in man and man's world and punish it accordingly. The other edifice to be seen on this wild and remote spot is the four dry stone walls of an old house, slightly hidden under the brow of the hill, hunched, roofless, moodily staring out to the tiny islet off the coast. You would be forgiven for wondering who on earth would be mad enough to bui...