Inishnee (Inis NĂ) lies across the water from Roundstone in Connemara. A bridge joins it to the mainland at its northernmost point and it had a population of 43 in 2011, most of them in the two northerly sections of the island. In fact, if water levels rise, it will turn into three separate islands, as only two very narrow strips of land are currently holding it together.
The road on the island begins at the bridge and finishes about a third of the way down the southern section. It is a lovely place for a looped walk but at 7am in the morning, I was more concerned about reaching the lighthouse at the southern end of the island.
I suspect that the same people who would deny Inishnee's insularity because it is connected by a bridge would also deny that it has a lighthouse because it is a concrete hut. But, as I have said many times in the past, you don't disown your children just because they are ugly.
I have no idea if my early morning route to the lighthouse is the easiest way. There may well be a trail down the western shore of the third section. The third section has one large hill in the centre of it whereas the base of the lighthouse is only around 5 meters above sea level.
I decided to drive to the end of the road and walk from there. I wore my hiking boots and had a stick, both of which I needed. From the end of the road, I walked south down the bridle path and then turned right. Hopping over a wooden fence I then turned left and upwards. I could see the black water tank on the summit of the hill and made for that. There were a couple of places where the fence had no barbed wire on top, so I precariously crossed the fence there.
At the top, I could see the lighthouse down below southwards, so I made for it in a straight line. Unfortunately, on the crest, the incline of the descent was a little too steep for my liking, so I turned eastwards until the incline flattened out a bit. I'd say roughly 25 minutes from the car to lighthouse.
The lighthouse is in Russ Rowlett's lighthouse directory and there is little information on the web about it outside of Russ's notes. It was erected in 1961 although there was a light established on the station back in 1910. The height of the tower is 4m (13ft) and the lights are 9m (30ft) above mean high water. There are white, green and red lights flashing twice every ten seconds. The white light has a range of 5nm, while the red and green reach 3nm. The Lighthouse Digest site adds the info that the first light was an iron tower.
The sectors of the light are shown above from eOceanic. I'm taking it that the yellow sector is the white sector. The battery system, said a 1962 report, required only a battery change at intervals of 15 to 18 months. Incidentally, the 1917 British Pilot Guide for 1917 lists only a white and a red sector. And I can confirm the three sets of lights, situated on three sides of the roof of the building are operational: -
That 1961 was the year of establishment of the current light is actually doubtful, despite the fact that I cannot find a Notice to Mariners. The Connaught Tribune of 9th December 1961 says that, despite the bad weather, work was progressing at the lighthouse. The same paper on Saturday January 20th 1962 says the new type of battery-system lighthouse at Inishnee was turned on for the first time on Monday night, which would have been the 15th January 1962. Of course, newspaper reports are not carved in stone, unlike the inscription at the foot at the southern-facing side of the light.
I'm presuming the date refers to when the tower was finished.
We have seen that the first light was established on the southern point of the island in 1910 and that it had a white and a red sector. The British Pilot for 1917 adds that the lights came from an white pillar. Lighthouse Digest says they came from an iron tower. I am therefore taking it that the first structure, for which I have been unable to source a photograph, was a white, iron pillar-tower. What I did discover on my visit was the remains of something that had been bolted to the rock just to the south of the light. It would have been quite a thin pillar if they were the pillar-tower's foundations.
It seems as though the upkeep of the lighthouse was part of the job of being harbour master at Roundstone.
The old lighthouse was run on paraffin oil, which makes you wonder how he serviced the two islands. He must have taken a boat out but surely he didn't do that every evening and every morning!! Deer Island or Croaghnakeela is a good way south of Inishnee and was replaced at the same time as her sister. I'm presuming the harbour master ran his boat up on the shingly beach 100 yards from the light. But I could be wrong.
The Tribune in January 1962 announced that Mr Joe King, Roundstone harbourmaster, had been reappointed lightkeeper at Inishnee and Deer Island, although obviously the work was much reduced. I wonder if he was anything to the Ballyconneely Kings who had the boat tender at Slyne Head. I wonder also if he was any relation to the Joe King who currently runs King's Bar in Roundstone - 'a fiver a pint but don't tell anyone.' Its not a name you forget.
Of course, the current light is run on solar power.
The little step near the door of the lighthouse, as former keepers will know, is to hold a ladder without it slipping, so a second person doesn't have to stand on the bottom rung to hold it steady. There are two eyelets on the roof (see top photo) which must be to secure the ladder at the top. From this, we can surmise that a) the ladder is kept inside the hut - the attendant would hardly bring it with him and b) that the servicing of the lights is done from without rather than within. Though, judging by the rust on the lock, I doubt it gets serviced very often.The light facing west, Roundstone behind and a couple of the Twelve Pins to the right.
From the shoreline facing northeast
From the northeast. I think this photo shows that, even though sceptics may deride the ugliness of the subject matter, its setting, together with its history, makes the trip worthwhile.